This post is going to be about food. Because well, the food is a definite high-light of this trip! Last night Josh and I went to a Hungarian blintz place. They had both sweet and savory blintzes. I was so enamored with this restaurant "Shoshanna & Uri's" that I snapped about 10 photos and transcribed everything we had off the menu. You could pick two different blintzes to be prepared on the same plate. They are about the size of burritos. Just for fun, here are the blintzes we had last night.
1. White salty cheese, baked in sour cream and kashkaval cheese
2. Baked eggplant mixed with garlic and white salty cheese baked in sour cream and kashkaval cheese
3. Spicy spinach, mixed with garlic and white salty cheese baked in sour cream and kashkaval cheese (josh's fav)
4. Mashed potatoes baked in an onion (sooo good) and sweet paprika sauce (tammy's fav)
It is a good thing I am walking around the city today. So much cheese!
Last night I played cards with two other folks we met at the hostel. One fella from South Africa who has been on holiday for 3 months (nice huh?), and a guy from Germany who is working on his master thesis in political science and making a documentary. We sat up, played cards and talked about everything from 9-11 to Israeli film makers. There was also another guy there who speaks Arabic and Hebrew and was taking an English lesson from the South African. He told me that my name means "date" (like the fruit).
Once again I have to mention just how sweet this hostel is. The area of town is a bit sketchy, but inside you feel like you are in a well worn, private, Mediterranean villa. Colorful walls that are slightly faded, pictures, maps, photos, paintings everywhere, large windows and balconies looking out on the busy flea market below and plants growing everywhere that seem to have just trailed in from the roof top balcony and settled in the kitchen and common areas.
But back to the food...
After stocking up on pastries to greet his co-workers with, I dropped josh off this morning at the airport to meet his tour. I then returned to the hostel for a nap. And, I'd like to take a moment here to say what a wonderful trip I've had with my brother. We haven't spent this much time together since we were kids and even though we still have our brother and sister moments, I've really enjoyed his company on this vacation. (Thanks yoshy!)
OK, so after my little nap, I drove into Tel Aviv proper and parked the car. I managed to find an open air market which I believe was in Karem Hataymanim (The Yemenite Quarter). I had a handful of fresh strawberries which must be in season because they are everywhere. After a long walk I stopped for a falafel sandwich. Not just any falafel sandwich, but the best falafel sandwich ever! It came stuffed with salad, hummus, tahini, falafels and FRENCH FRIES... You could also help your self to the bar of condiments. And every condiment is pickled (cabbage, oranges, radishes, cucubmers.)
And that's about it for today. Josh may send me notes from his second week in Israel which I will post here. (So check back for more)
Monday, February 28, 2005
Sunday, February 27, 2005
Kibbutz Lotan, Mitzpe Ramon, Caesarea
We've just returned to Tel Aviv after 2 days of no email, radio, phone or TV. We dropped of Josh's laundry and have a few moments at a local internet cafe. The first message I just read was from Andrew "By now I am sure you know what happened in Tel Aviv..." What? What? What happened? A quick click to CNN.com informed us of the bombing at the night club on the beach here. I'm not quite sure where it is in relation to our hostel. That said, I am sure we will have an early night this evening.
Josh and I spent the past few days in the great outdoors. The country is beautiful. We've visited 5 national parks and have the sunburns to show for it. On Friday morning we snorkeled at Eilat. A bit cold for extended periods in the water, but we did it all the same.
In the afternoon we visited Kibbutz Lotan, north of Timna Park on route 90. Josh's school has a relationship with the kibbutz. They are an extremely ecologically focused group, with educational programs on recycling, composting, etc.. They have a great phrase they use "give your garbage a second chance." Which they have done. While we were there they were working on a new structure made from stacking old tires, and then filling them with garbage and then creating a clay/mud plaster around it to form walls.
Josh and I attended Shabbat Services and then joined them for Shabbat dinner. Another delicious meal!
We drove that night to a hostel on the rim of Mitzpe Ramon (huge monster crater). The next morning we went for a 5 hour hike through a canyon and along the crest of the canyon. The photos (eventually) will say more about the beauty of this park than I can.
After the hike we drove north, past Tel Aviv to a small city called Caesarea. After getting lost (imagine that) we managed to find the youth hostel. Actually Josh was the hero this evening, he insisted we try this building that looked a lot like a naval museum. He ran out of the car, knocked on the doors rang the buzzers and his instincts were correct. It was a boat shaped youth hostel with port-hole looking lamps and all the trimmings. Not to mention a most excellent shower.
And well this morning we explored the ruins of Caesarea. I would type you all about it, but now we must go pick up some laundry.
Josh and I spent the past few days in the great outdoors. The country is beautiful. We've visited 5 national parks and have the sunburns to show for it. On Friday morning we snorkeled at Eilat. A bit cold for extended periods in the water, but we did it all the same.
In the afternoon we visited Kibbutz Lotan, north of Timna Park on route 90. Josh's school has a relationship with the kibbutz. They are an extremely ecologically focused group, with educational programs on recycling, composting, etc.. They have a great phrase they use "give your garbage a second chance." Which they have done. While we were there they were working on a new structure made from stacking old tires, and then filling them with garbage and then creating a clay/mud plaster around it to form walls.
Josh and I attended Shabbat Services and then joined them for Shabbat dinner. Another delicious meal!
We drove that night to a hostel on the rim of Mitzpe Ramon (huge monster crater). The next morning we went for a 5 hour hike through a canyon and along the crest of the canyon. The photos (eventually) will say more about the beauty of this park than I can.
After the hike we drove north, past Tel Aviv to a small city called Caesarea. After getting lost (imagine that) we managed to find the youth hostel. Actually Josh was the hero this evening, he insisted we try this building that looked a lot like a naval museum. He ran out of the car, knocked on the doors rang the buzzers and his instincts were correct. It was a boat shaped youth hostel with port-hole looking lamps and all the trimmings. Not to mention a most excellent shower.
And well this morning we explored the ruins of Caesarea. I would type you all about it, but now we must go pick up some laundry.
Thursday, February 24, 2005
Wednesday, February 23, 2005
The lowest mud smear on earth!
Photos are going to be a few days.
Today Josh and I made a faulty early morning attempt to go to Masada. We left the room at 3:00am - excited for our early morning - full moon light hike, but had to turn around when we got the gate to find out it didn't open until 5:30am. So we returned to the hotel and got some much needed rest.
Around 10:00am we went down to the Ein Gedi day spa. ("the lowest place on earth") It is something of an oasis sprouting out of the salty banks of the Dead Sea. The sea used to be up the edge of the main building but has been receding and is now a good 10 minute walk from the spa.
We started off in the sulfur baths, then moved on to the mud treatment. For some reason I was under the impression we would be submerging ourselves in mud, but this was even better, there are a bunch of thatched huts, outdoors shower area and beach chairs down on the sand along with two huge vats of mud. You just reach in, grab and handful of the thick dark green/black mud and spreading it all over. Josh and I got good and muddy, then rinsed off in the hot sulfur shower.
After rinsing off the mud we went down to the dead sea to float. The water is salty beyond any ocean water you could imagine. The few posts, dock pillars, drift wood etc, that were partially submerged in the water where completely covered in salt crystals. As was the hard packed floor of the sea. It was as if you were walking on coral. And of course, there was the floating. Josh - who isn't naturally buoyant at all, was able to rest his head back, kick his feet up and just relax - floating along with the waves.
We finished off our spa trip by each getting a massage. (nice huh?)
Anyhoo, tomorrow we are off to Masada in the morning and then to some hiking in the Negev.
Today Josh and I made a faulty early morning attempt to go to Masada. We left the room at 3:00am - excited for our early morning - full moon light hike, but had to turn around when we got the gate to find out it didn't open until 5:30am. So we returned to the hotel and got some much needed rest.
Around 10:00am we went down to the Ein Gedi day spa. ("the lowest place on earth") It is something of an oasis sprouting out of the salty banks of the Dead Sea. The sea used to be up the edge of the main building but has been receding and is now a good 10 minute walk from the spa.
We started off in the sulfur baths, then moved on to the mud treatment. For some reason I was under the impression we would be submerging ourselves in mud, but this was even better, there are a bunch of thatched huts, outdoors shower area and beach chairs down on the sand along with two huge vats of mud. You just reach in, grab and handful of the thick dark green/black mud and spreading it all over. Josh and I got good and muddy, then rinsed off in the hot sulfur shower.
After rinsing off the mud we went down to the dead sea to float. The water is salty beyond any ocean water you could imagine. The few posts, dock pillars, drift wood etc, that were partially submerged in the water where completely covered in salt crystals. As was the hard packed floor of the sea. It was as if you were walking on coral. And of course, there was the floating. Josh - who isn't naturally buoyant at all, was able to rest his head back, kick his feet up and just relax - floating along with the waves.
We finished off our spa trip by each getting a massage. (nice huh?)
Anyhoo, tomorrow we are off to Masada in the morning and then to some hiking in the Negev.
Tuesday, February 22, 2005
Hello from Jerusalem!
Yes! We finally arrived. The flight was delayed 3 hours due to the snow storm, and an illness on the plane. We also had an interesting experience at the airport. Having been tagged as "suspicious" (you should see josh's passport photo) we were personally escorted to the gate, where the El Al security guard sat with us until boarding. We were then the first to board the plane (she escorted us there too). Josh, joking with the security guard asked if we could get first class seats. She said she didn't think she could swing it for us. Then Josh replied "well, atleast I feel like we are getting first class service" to which she replied "yes, but by security - that's different"
But enough about the airport. We arrived in Tel Aviv /Old Jaffa about 1:00 in the morning and set out to get some food. A fantastic sandwich and some sweets. We then walked around Old Jaffa until about 3:00 - we refused to let our first night in Israel pass without some sightseeing!
And this morning we headed out to Jerusalem. The city is a windy old city with shops, vendors, and all sorts of interesting nooks in crannies. We pretty much gave up on navigating by map, but we did manage to find the Wailing Wall and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. The internet cafe we are sitting in right now is located on the Via Dolorosa.
Ok. photos to follow.
But enough about the airport. We arrived in Tel Aviv /Old Jaffa about 1:00 in the morning and set out to get some food. A fantastic sandwich and some sweets. We then walked around Old Jaffa until about 3:00 - we refused to let our first night in Israel pass without some sightseeing!
And this morning we headed out to Jerusalem. The city is a windy old city with shops, vendors, and all sorts of interesting nooks in crannies. We pretty much gave up on navigating by map, but we did manage to find the Wailing Wall and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. The internet cafe we are sitting in right now is located on the Via Dolorosa.
Ok. photos to follow.
Feb 22 - Part 2 - From Jerusalem to Ein Gedi
Right, so we wanted to get on the road from Jerusalem well before sunset in order to cross the West bank to the dead sea during day-light hours. And well, we were running a bit late. We did get lost about 5 times (which is turning out to be a standard for us) and we had to ask directions on quite a few check points. At one such stop we asked for directions and the soldier said "next right"-- after turning right onto a residential road that ended at a large security fence with an armed guard we figured we had mis-understood. The soldier there also confirmed that we had misunderstood. When we asked him if we were on the right track to Ein Gedi he replied "well, I know it isn't here." We then asked replied "do you mind if we turn around here?" to which he replied that it was "probably a good idea".
But really, our nerves were more dangerous than anything we may have encountered. Everyone was very nice and gave us directions and smiles and the works. (well, except for guard mentioned above)
And 45 minutes later...... ta...da
here we are at Ein Gedi by the Red Sea. We have day of hiking, soaking in the mud, and floating in the sea planned for tomorrow.
p.s: we had an awesome kosher meal tonight at the Ein Gedi Hotel/Spa/Botanical Garden! They are renovation their dining hall, so they have tents set up outside. We sat outside (about 50 out - nice and breezy) and ate yams, hummus, chicken, beets, cucumber onion salad, rice...and all sorts of other delicious dishes of the huge spread! We even met a family that used to live in Carroll Gardens on 1st place. Small world.
But really, our nerves were more dangerous than anything we may have encountered. Everyone was very nice and gave us directions and smiles and the works. (well, except for guard mentioned above)
And 45 minutes later...... ta...da
here we are at Ein Gedi by the Red Sea. We have day of hiking, soaking in the mud, and floating in the sea planned for tomorrow.
p.s: we had an awesome kosher meal tonight at the Ein Gedi Hotel/Spa/Botanical Garden! They are renovation their dining hall, so they have tents set up outside. We sat outside (about 50 out - nice and breezy) and ate yams, hummus, chicken, beets, cucumber onion salad, rice...and all sorts of other delicious dishes of the huge spread! We even met a family that used to live in Carroll Gardens on 1st place. Small world.
On the Road to Jerusalem
On the Road to Jerusalem
Originally uploaded by tamara23.
Just showing how green it was. (and a beautiful day!)
Saturday, February 19, 2005
Just finished packing
I just finished packing for the trip. I am sure I will find that I completely mis-read the weather in Israel, but hopefully I've covered all the bases. I've managed to fit everything into one back-pack! Josh is coming into the city tomorrow evening and then we are heading to JFK together. The weather for new york tomorrow calls for a late evening snow storm, so hopefully we will get off the ground on time.
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